THe glory of a story |
Thoughts and threads of passion and experience that have woven the fabric I call my life. Sharing experiences, memories and ideas so that they are out in the world for you to find when the time is right.
THe glory of a story |
The morning started out about 7:30 when someone's car alarm went off, continuing for what seemed like an eternity, but in reality it might only have been a few minutes. Cecil was excited to get on his way, as he often is when traveling, and had us all packed up to go before 8:30. I am much slower, but pushed to finish my coffee and notes and get ready so he didn't leave without me! It was a much longer day than we'd anticipated. We left Maratea around 9am, and still didn't arrive in Ontranto until close to 6pm. The day was great though! Although there was lots of driving, there were also lots of sights to see. We headed down the coastline to the south, then cut across the mountains, and made our way to the gulf. The water on the gulf was amazing, the blues and turquoise colors, melding together in the most brilliant shades! The mountains in the background only added to the beauty. We stopped at a little town just past Sabari, and had a drink by the water. We walked the beach for a bit, with the intent of stopping for a lunch of leftovers, but as we drove along, we headed away from the water. The idea of stopping to eat inland seemed a waste with so much beautiful scenery behind us. We continued on instead, seeing more agricultural land than we could imagine. Taranto was a vast seaport, but the smell in the area was quite putrid to those of us who are accustomed to the acres and acres of open farmland that we are usually surrounded by. I don't know if it was the oil refinery or the steel works. The seaport colors were just as beautiful, but the industry took away from it all somehow. We continued to meander along until Lecce, where we ventured off the busier roads finding our way to San Caldalto. Once there, it didn't take too long before we decided that rather than stop there, we might as well make our way down to Otranto. The last leg of the journey was a cacophony of frustration, as the RCI address and directions left us in the center of Otranto, with no resort in sight. We finally pulled off and went into a small cafe where fortunately a young lady there spoke enough English to help us to know that the resort was about 10 kms back. We finally found our way, and gratefully, they let us check in one day early, as things are slow. We checked into a cute little two bedroom apartment, with no living room, but that was okay. It was actually quite a bit nicer than the Maratea accommodations, although parking is more challenging. Wifi was free, power included, there were lots of dishes. Best of all we were only 100 meters from the sea. After check-in we checked out the sunset at the beach enjoying the view across the Adriatic, and imagining the sites of Greece across the water. Later, after a couple of drinks at the little bar we called it a night. It was an early one, but after a long day we headed to bed with full intentions of getting up to enjoy the sunrise in the morning.
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We decided that as it was our last day at Maratea, we should head down to the beach. It was an amazing hot day, and the wind was gone. We headed down a little after 10, and this time got off at the first beach, know as Black Beach...as the sand is completely black from the volcanic ash/stones that make up this part of the Tyrannean Sea. Just as we were getting down to the beach, a young lady who had followed us down started talking to us in excellent English. Her name is Patrizia, from Rome, who is staying at an apartment at the resort that her dad owns. She was a wonderful conversationalist, and very helpful in understanding things about the language and culture we are uncertain of. We had hoped to meet up with her again to give her our card, as she had some wonderful ideas for language learning for our retreat, but sadly it was not to be! A beautiful lady! We ventured into the sea, Cecil as always braver than me. As I got out to my hips, a big wave came in and swept me off my feet, rolling me around in the salty water. I panicked, thinking only of my glasses after my adventure at Lake of the Woods in June, and in grabbing and holding on to them, I could not get my footing before another, then another wave came and rolled me around. Cecil almost drowned out where he was, as he was laughing so hard, watching my butt end and legs rise up then disappear again in the graceful manner to which we are accustomed to seeing me! After the 3rd roll around in the water, I got to my feet and decided that maybe it was better to stay out. It later occured to me that I could have taken my glasses off and left them on the beach with my new 'Maratea' towel....next time. Some days I am just a little slower! We went back and laid in the sun until early afternoon, then headed to catch the last bus back up before they shut down for the siesta. At our apartment I took a much needed shower to wash off the sand and leaves that were pasted all over me. I had stones dropping out of places no stone should hide, and realized how the water had truly rolled me around on the beach. We still laugh each time we think of it, as I'm sure the other vacationers watching do...I do leave an impression! When we finally headed down for supper, 'Peter' the waiter/manager who has been so amazing all week served us for our last meal there. We have always found him to be wonderful at explaining dishes, customs and words, and have been very luck to have had him here for the duration of our stay. Later, we headed down to the stage to take in the entertainment provided, which we'd missed out on all week. It started with the kids being led in dance routines, as we'd seen earlier in the week. After that the young people that lead the afternoon dance classes performed a series of skits and songs for about an hour and a half. They must have been very funny...not understanding the language, we missed out on the storyline and the humor, but the crowd around us was laughing, and many of the children were doubled over..so I think much of the humour was directed to them! We returned to our room and called it a night about midnight, knowing that today will be a long day of travel heading on to Otranto...but excited for the next leg of our jouney! Upon reaching Maratea, we grabbed the chance to go back to Rossofermo Wine Bar, the little side street wine cafe, for another taste of last night's Chardonnay as well as the gourmet beer that Cecil enjoyed so much with Keith. We decided to have our supper there, a selection of chewy salamis (which was really various dried meats, bacon and veal) with cheese, and a Capri salad. The meal wasn't our the best, but the location, ambiance and company was unsurpassed. Sitting there, we both felt that we were sitting in a movie production of our life's most amazing moments, perched on the little red pillows, with the shaky wooden tables before us. Spending time talking with Grandpa Banana, who is a musician who has committed himself to returning to Italy twice a year, for the rest of his life and learning all he needs to to be able to do that. He has also played at the Winnipeg Folk Festival, so he was certainly familiar with our corner of the world! He and his wife were from San Fransisco. Looking up the stairs that led to only imagined possibilities, then down the streets to the colorful rows of Italian dreams, all was perfect. Before leaving town we found the perfect beach towels that would serve both our hopes for more hours enjoying sand and sun, as well as something that will always take us back to this place....and a couple of lovely, Italian cotton tunics that put my spirit right back in the center of Maratea every time I put them on. Great way to end a very busy and eventful day...that neither of us will ever forget! The icing on the cake, was the full Italian moon shining down on us as we returned to our lodging. The makings of one perfect memory! After another rainy night, we headed out for a tour with with Joe and Cyndy, folks we'd met from Iowa, to explore Joe's heritage. It was to be an adventure to find his roots in Belsita, Italy, to the south east of where we're staying and the town where his Grandmother had immigrated from. The GPS systems here seem to continually be just far enough off that you miss 80% of the turns that need to be made to get where you're going, and today was no exception, so a ride that should have taken an hour and a half ended up taking almost 3. But, alas, we eventually did reach our destination, bouncing along in an older, yellow Fiat convertible, that has definitely seen better days. Although Joe said it wasn't all that important to him to make this trek back to trace his heritage, the excitement on his face and in his voice at finding the town that his grandmother was raised in told a different story. Being as involved in Ancestry as I am, I can only imagine what it meant to him to pull into that little town and see the sites that were relayed to him as the cornerstones of the family history of grandmother's birth and upbringing. As we piled out of the little yellow convertible, we found ourselves in what we imagined a little Italian village to be. No on understood our questions, as we asked of the where-about of the one cousin that Joe knew still lived there, although we knew by the huge painting of Elvis on the side of the building that we'd reached the right place. Four bewildered gentlemen looked back and forth to each other and again at us, understanding none of our English, just as we understood none of their Italian. Finally one of the men, who drew on one of the strong, pungent cigarettes that are so common to the area, nodded his head and pointed to behind the building saying 'Anglisia...' motioning to us to follow him. Out back, under a red and white sun umbrella, enjoying a 'Peroni' and waving a cigarette, was the local English Speaker, who just happened to be from Toronto Canada, enjoying his annual holiday in his home town. As we talked, he warmed to us, and let us know that cousin Tony was in Germany at his daughters, and we'd missed him. He told us that the man that had led us to him was going to be travelling to join Tony in a few days, as they enjoyed their card games together. This information allowed our friends to provide a note and a small gift from them, with their regrets for having missed him. As we continued our conversation with the 'Torontonian' we thought how ironic it was that we traveled across the world to have a man from one province away translate all we needed to know about this never met cousin. He shared that he came here every year for a couple of months in the house he owned, and how he could not live here as it was too expensive. A point that still has us baffled, as much of what we'd experienced seemed cheaper than home. After a beer at the local watering hole, and a red wine from a beer capped bottle that led me to believe that it was the product from one of the owners own grape vineyard, we continued our travels. We tried desperately to find the local cemetery, around back streets and farm roads, where grapes hung heavy, and olive trees abounded. A lone cow grazed in one yard, and in another a pen filled with laying hens guarded by anxious dogs let everyone know that the lost 'touristo's were there. We never did find the cemetery, and left town, just a little disappointed, but still happy to have found the place and seen what we had. We headed back to the crossroads where we had a late lunch at 'Oklahoma bar and grill'. It was very difficult to figure out our luncheon options, with us speaking no Italian, and the staff there speaking little English, but eventually we ended up having a very satisfying lunch that included a starter of tomatoes/toast and potatoes, pasta dishes, one of tomatoes/basil and pasta, the other of pasta, beans and bacon...then at the end of our meal, two large tomate and Mozza salads. With the beer and wine, the bill still only came to 21 Euro. There was a rush to get the rental back to Maratea by 6pm, so we GPSed our way to the coast highway of SS18, that allowed us to see the beautiful colors of the Thyreanian sea, all the way up from Paola to Maratea, with only a stop or two to stretch our legs along the way. Left the residence 'early to go to the 'Caves' for a tour. It was a little disappointing as Daniella from EuroTours had told me we could take pictures. We arrived and of course we could not. It was 20 Euro for a tour that was to be 90 minutes, and we were done in 70, so that was a bit of a rip off as well, as much of the time was just spent backtracking over places that we'd seen already. Live and learn. It was all okay but I think the caves in Cuba were more interesting to be honest. Outside the caves, we spent time at the shops, and had fresh figs for the first time. They were delicious, as were the fresh grapes being sold by a local vendor who also had her own olive oil and homemade wine on hand. Upon returning back to the residence we had lunch and an afternoon siesta to get ready to go on the evening tour of Maratea. It started out at the Christ the Redeemer church on top of the mountain. What a trail up that was, it leaves you white knuckled going up there, but oh my goodness what a view! We rode up with 3 older Italian people, Carla, Maria and Mario, who all spoke enough English to help translate for us with the driver. They were wonderful! After the top of the mountain, we headed down to Port o'Maratea which was beautiful, then into the town square for an hour or so. In the town I found a few skirts at "Edourdo's" shop, then we bought some wine for later this week. Before leaving town, we ran into Keith and Helma the couple from Austalia, who were having a drink on a side street, which was such a cool little corner, with pillows on the cement and the ambiance of the region. It was perfect! It was exactly what my dream of Italy was, captured in that little corner off the street. We returned to have our dinner here at the residence, this time sampling the pizza. All was good, nothing that really left an impression, but all was fine. Back at the apartment, Cecil enjoyed his homemade wine from the lady at the Caves, I enjoyed a calm, beautiful evening. Life is very lovely, we are blessed! After a good nights sleep, a 9am rise. In our shopping the night before, I thought I had bought vanilla yogurt for breakfast, but turns out to be vanilla pudding. Definitely should have learned more Italian, but a tasty start to the day. As we enjoyed the morning sun with olives, cheese and coffee on the patio,Cec noticed a little collection of lizards of some sort that seem to reside in the plant boxes on the patio. Not exactly sure what they were called, but they sure move in a hurry. If he hadn't noticed them before I did, I sure they'd have given me a heart attack! Before 10am it was already very, very hot out. I didn't expect such heat...now looking back, I wonder to myself what is was that I did expect! Our Sunday was a lazy day. We headed down to the travel booth about 11 and found a couple of options of tours to take, as well as possible options for a rental car that would get us to Otranto the following week. After figuring out a few things, we grabbed a couple of bottles of water, and planned to go to the beach. Beer in the Resort mini-mart is 80cents, suntan lotion is 13.00 euros...so not everything is reasonable! We took our expensive lotion and our water and headed to the bus stop to wait for the bus that takes you down to the beaches. After sitting on the benches for about 15 minutes, we got thinking that it was time for the drivers' lunch break, so we walked back to our apartment for lunch...and to look at the schedule that informed us that the lunch break doesn't happen until well after 1, so after gobbling down our olives and cheese we headed back to the bus stop. We caught the 12:30 that took us down the windiest, steepest trail I have ever ridden on. The view was amazing, but the look over the edge of the road a little unnerving! The first stop at the bottom, the man seated across from us got up and off the bus, so I jumped up and followed, Cec jumped up and followed me... unfortunately, we were not at the beach, as we were the only two that jumped off at the little bar/restaurant that the two trails leading up from the beach meet at. So, what else, but to have a beer, and an ice cappuccino and wait for the next bus. When it came, we hopped on, only to find out it went about 20 feet then turned around and headed back up the hill to the resort, so I guess were were very close to where we needed to be, but just didn't know it. We decided to wait until the next day to venture down again. After returning, we had a couple of drinks at the bar then we headed up to the room for a siesta, that lasted almost 3 hours. I can't believe how tired we were, in the afternoon heat it seemed like the sensible thing to do. That evening we made our way back down to the main reception area to do a little more research on getting a cab to take us into town to do some exploring. Waiting for the restaurant to open, we had a great, and very interesting conversation with a couple from Sidney Australia. They have travelled to Italy 3 times now, and had lots of good information on Venice for when we hit there. They had a rental and had done more exploring than us, but seemed as nervous of the other drivers as we were after yesterday's experience! However they confirmed for us that it's possible. We'll see. There was some relief provided in the conversation as they did confirm for us though that we're not the only ones that found having to make our beds a little strange, as well as having to phone the front desk to find out where the cutlery was hidden. No one ever thought that kitchen tools would be stored in the bottom of the fridge I guess! Throughout dinner we were entertained by a young woman who sang just beautifully. Although it was close to the end of the tourist season there, there were still lots of activities going on for visitors. In the morning there was water aerobics going on in the pool, the afternoon offered dance lessons by the restaurant, and in the evening plays and activities going on down in the amphitheater. My only wish was that I'd thought a little more about what the weather would be like, so I'd have been better prepared...for some reason I didn't take any of my sundresses, and very few cool clothes...not sure what I thought the weather might be like...but never thought it would be as warm as it was. But it's all good! While travelling, I am glad I made the choice to relax and enjoy the wines of the areas after a year of not consuming any alcohol. We are back into wine country here, wine and corn fields...lots of them, just as in Switzerland. I really must google and see what all the corn here is raised for...it's a bit of a mystery to me, but my guess is to feed the cattle to produce the milk for cheese! I am so happy to finally be getting this opportunity. Its been a long time coming, and really just so hard to believe that we are finally here, and still asking myself, what is it that has always drawn me to want to explore this beautiful part of the world. Why has Italy always called to me, when so many other places on the map never have? I wonder if maybe the next few weeks will answer that question, as I wander and explore, and we gather this experience together. We made it to Maratea...by the skin of our teeth. Our train broke down in Sapri, and when i looked at the map it was closer to go from here Maratea than our planned stop at Scalea and back to Maratea was. We had time with the breakdown to go and find out that we could get a cab here for 40euros, about the same as trying to arrange train and cab when the train was fixed so we opted for that. The view between there and Maratea was breath taking, but the ride was death defying! Never have I ridden in a vehicle with a driver that was so prone to attempting suicide on every hairpin curve and bend! The ride over was approximately 30 minutes, but it was hard to tell when you're hanging on with white knuckles, looking over the cliffs to the sea below. The direct switchbacks along the road were endless, and our cab driver was not opposed to pulling out and passing the vehicles that were going a shade slower to him at any bend in the road...and there were many, many bends! I was very surprised to see that we made it safely and in one place, although to the wrong place. We ended up at the top of the mountain at the Ritz! It's another hotel with the same name as ours, but several hotel standards above with marble floors and 360 degree views of the sea below. Didn't take too long to see that we were in the wrong place, but fortunately they sent the hotel van to take us down to where we were meant to be. We arrived at Club Residence Pianeta Maratea, a large sprawling series of apartments in a timeshare area. We got checked in with little problem,but unfortunately, everything here is stairs...which will be fine when we are not toting our luggage up the miles of stone steps to get us to our little bachelor pad. Of course I tend to view everything through the disability lens when I'm travelling...knowing what would and wouldn't work with the experience we lived. This would not work if your mobility is an issue, that was for sure. There is nothing fancy about the unit, in fact it did look a little tired and worn. However, we must admit, the place was chosen because it was close to water and was within the limited amount of points we had with our timeshare, so it's not expected to be a 5 star. That said, it does have everything we need right here...pool, laundry, travel centre, mini-mart, restaurant and bar. We ventured down for supper when we got settled, to find that they didn't start serving until 7:30 after the staff had eaten. So we settled in for a wine and beer and relaxed with the amazing sunset that I was unable to capture as I left my camera and phone in the room. I had a 'special pasta' with tomato, mushroom and bacon sauce, while Cec enjoyed the grilled seafood entre. Mine was okay, his was very good, although not too filling, but the piece de resistance was ending the meal with a Sicilian Canolli...now that was amazing! Our meal including beverages, came to only 40 Euros. We ventured over to the mini-mart to get a few supplies. They have a butcher on hand, with many cuts of dried/smoked meats, as well as olives and cheeses. we ended up with 4 bags of food that included 6 beer and a bottle of wine for 38 Euros, less than expected for sure as we really thought that the onsite store would be much more expensive for sure! When we later looked at our bill, we realized that the 250ml of Pepsi was our most expensive purchase! Costing more than a litre of white wine, and almost as much as 4 Peroni beer! Who'd have thought! We climbed the many steps back to our apartment, managed about 30 minutes before we fell into bed. Except for the leg cramps from lack of drinking water the sleep was wonderful, and caught up on about 9 hours! Yay It was our second last train of a very long day. We left 7am in the morning and with an estimated arrival in Maratea about 8pm. It has gone well. The first train change was more than a little nerve wracking as we really didn't know if we had it right or not. We only had 20 minutes to find the next one, but we did it! On our way to Scales, I became a little nervous again as it looked like we would have to go past Maratea and double back. It was a bit of a rush and an adventure, not knowing if we could make ourselves understood when questions arise. As we rocked along the sun shone a brilliant blue on the water to our left. This is the sea that I had dreamed of seeing for so long. There have been beautiful views to the east of us, but there has also been a dry dirtiness in much of what we saw. Farmland, more than I ever imagined, with big round bales of hay, and combines working in the field. That was so not what I expected to see...but another surprise. Things became greener as we made our way south. The train stations were an interesting shock to us, so much active conversation, the excited Italian voices raising above the whir of the trains, and lots and lots of smoke. We've become used to having so many places where you can't smoke, but that is not so the case here. At every stop, cigarettes light up immediately upon departing the train, and the waiting lines are full of the strong, pipey smell of the many cigarettes that people inhale deeply, obviously enjoying. There also seem to be so many dogs on the platforms. I am surprised, as I don't imagine taking my dog on a train ride would be all that much fun, but many seem to do it here. What a different world from what we are used to at home! How wonderful to get to explore it! And now....Finally, Italy. We have been on the train for almost 1.5 hours, leaving the mountains in the north, and about to enter Milano. The terrain has changed. The trees, lakes and rivers are beautiful, and much like my imagination said they would be. The houses we have seen along the way, so much different than the homes on the Swiss side of the mountain...definitely what we'd call a Mediterranean look to them. I am tired from the late nights and early mornings, but soo excited and happy that this dream is realized. After the last few days of hiking and walking with Cecil, I am glad that we are doing it now, as i wonder how much longer his lungs will allow him to enjoy this sort of travelling. He's struggled a couple of times with his breathing and his knees are causing him greif. For my own part, all I can say is thank goodness I lost the weight that I have. The walking has been slow with my dizzy glasses, but easy in terms of how I feel physically. What a treat to just enjoy seeing so much without the side effects that the extra 70 pounds had. LIFE is GOOD. Our journey to experience the Matterhorn required our driving for about 1.5 hours up more, steep windy hills to Tasch, where we caught the train that takes you up the mountain. The town is a strong reminder of Banff, with lots of expensive clothing and accessory stores, and dozens of villas and chalets for skiers to rent. We walked up to the trolley lift, and continued our journey up the mountain, changing lifts 3 times to reach the top. The weather at the top was fantastic! Sunny, warm, although I was glad we'd purchased our souvenir sweaters the day before, as they were exactly what we needed when we landed on the snow covered top! After spending time looking at the view from all directions, and having our host provide totally wrong information to another tourist who was looking for the new 'diamond' cabin, we headed to the Ice Palace, where we walked through the ice tunnels to view the carvings,and magic of this creation carved out of the glacier's ice. Cec and I tried the ice slide...he did better than I...must be that my behind is too hot to slide properly on the mats provided, but it was good for a laugh. We videoed another message for the kids, because even though travel is one of my top passions and priority...so is my family...children, grandchildren, siblings and all. We eventually headed on our way down to the first change level for lunch. We chose a quiet, small restaurant under construction, where we had a starter of cold smoked meats, followed by 'rotsi', a traditional swiss meal of potatoes, cheese, ham and egg in a cassarole type dish. It was here Cec and I both realized what our student from last year had tried to prepare the night she made us dinner when were were so befuddled by her creation. I felt bad, as I saw that it was something she was trying to recreate for us, even though the base was definitely not the same. We relaxed on the outdoor lawn furniture in the warm sun, sipping our wine and beer, watching for butterflies and soaking in life. What a great day. We eventually headed down the mountain, into the town where the French/German language division happens, and found a small winery that was open to sample wines and enjoy options. They served not only really great wine, but one of the nicest cheeses I have every tasted. After 4 options, we settled on a case of the second, a 'Petite Arvine', something our host had ordered for me the day before, that I loved, but can't say I've tried before. I must remember to watch for it when I go home and wine shop. We returned home about 7 to relax, enjoy our wine and watch Jack Reacher together. I can't say enough about our time with our amazing Swiss host, he planned everything, and made sure we saw as much as we could in the short time were were allotted with him. What a great experience, and what wonderful memories! It made us glad for every opportunity we had offered his daughter the proceeding year, as it came back to us in the gift of this time here. I even had the chance to find and photograph the black swiss 'fighting' cows...who even knew they existed. |
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